Rumney and Boston

 

Autumn in Rumney.

 

Apparently Fall does exist outside of California. Trees change color overnight, the smell of ripe earth can be inhaled and cool crisp temperatures arrive. I can’t think of a more ideal place to experience the beauty of Fall than in Rumney.


I flew into Boston and met Max Zolotukhin, Carlo Traversi , Tiffany Hensley, Daniel Woods and Courtney Sanders. After the UBC competition (check out the video HERE and HERE for more) the plan was to climb in Rumney the following week. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t perfect everyday but that was alright because I was still excited to be in New England, see Boston, spend time with Max and experience Fall as much as I could. It was my temporary emancipation from school, exams and obligation.

Rumney is decidedly one of the best places I have ever climbed, sport or bouldering. The lines are striking on bullet hard dark schist that is reminiscent of wood. In 11 years of climbing I’ve never experienced anything like it. Definitely in my top 3!

 

The best 5.10 sport route in America? photo by Lee Hansche

 

Even though I changed my plane ticket to extend the trip we were only able to get about 3 and half days of climbing in Rumney due to weather. In that time I was still able to do a lot of climbing. Because of the unpredictable weather and the limited amount of days I knew we would have I didn’t want to start any projects that would take more than a day or two to finish. Here is what I managed to send;

– Waimea 10d (onsight) maybe the best 5.10 anywhere?
– Great White 13a (flash)
– Technosurfer 12b (flash)
– Bottomfeeder 13a (flash) here is a VIDEO that Max made
– Butt Bongo Fiesta 13a
– Whip Tide 12c
– Stone Monkey 13b

Courtney crushed her first 5.13 by sending Bottomfeeder. Radddddd! AND she’s only been climbing for about 2 years. She is a natural athlete and one of the most powerful climbers I’ve ever seen. She’s also very driven and psyched to climb. I have a hard time finding other females who are as consistently psyched to climb as I am, so it was fun to be around her and get to climb with her. Max looked really strong working The Fly and managed to stick the first move (the crux) and do all of the other moves too. V14 on a rope! SICK!! With slightly cooler conditions I think it will go for him very quickly.

 

Max on the starting holds of The Fly. photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

Waimea Wall at sunset. photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

Courtney and Dave at Waimea. photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

I’m dying to go back and try more of the climbs in Rumney. There is so much to do and so many beautiful looking lines. Wood grain grippin’ all day erra day!

Our rest/rain days were spent in Boston. I don’t think I could ever relate to everyone all of the amazing, fun and epic things that happened. Went to a bike show and saw some pretty bikes, Tonde and I were guest setters at the Boston Rock Gym where we climbed afterward with a fun crew of locals, thanks BRG! Hung out at Harvard Square with Daniel and Courtney, went to a dance party DJ’ed by Max’s housemate Gavin Heverly, met A TON of really cool people and made a lot of new friends, and ate at a bunch of really good restaurants including a place that had THE BEST vegan pizza I’ve ever had. Imagine the best pizza you’ve ever had and times it by 1000. This place blows that out of the water. Fer real.

 

Max and Gavin's aparment. So many bikes! photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

Daniel, Courtney and our friend Dave Pendon who was kind enough to let us all stay in his cabin in Rumney. photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

The Boston Rock Gym. photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

Max and Gavin washing holds while I stand around. photo by Tonde Katiyo

 

 

Me and Max at a beer bar before the dance party.

 

 

new friends.

 

This was the first real climbing trip I’ve taken outside of California in a LONG time. Having tasted a little bit freedom and feeling the excitement of meeting new faces and climbing in a new place, I’m left yearning for more. I’ve always thought that one of the best things about traveling is coming home but this is probably one of the first times I’ve actually been sad to go. I think the people I spent time with in Rumney and Boston have more than a little bit to do with that. I SHALL RETURN!!

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