In case you haven’t noticed Jailhouse is featured in the newest issue of Rock and Ice. Although I didn’t particularly enjoy the article, I did enjoy the photos by Ben Ditto and the fact that they showcase some really amazing and strong ladies that climb there regularly. This weekend I had the opportunity to get out to The House with my friend Vian (who is in one of the photos CRUSHING 5.14).
It always feels good be back on the old familiar hike up to The House and to get on the ruthlessly wired 5.12 warm-ups I always like to get on. This weekend I was working on a line called Jailbait (5.13c).
Jailbait is probably one of the longest climbs I’ve tried at Jailhouse so far. It’s very sustained and it’s hard until the very last move and has several key knee bars. There is a very good rest about 2/3 of the way up which is probably why its given the 5.13c grade instead of 5.13d. The anchors are guarded by a very bouldery and run-out finish on a bulge followed by a HUGE reach to an undercling block that you clip the anchors from. If ever a route had a heartbreak finish it would be this one. Amazingly, in 2007 Emily Harrington flashed this route (as well as almost flashing my project that I sent last season, Assassin 5.13d which she got 3rd go and also sent Burning Down the House 5.14b). This continues to astonish me since I could never imaging flashing something as tricky as Jailbait…or Assassin for that matter.
After a couple of goes up Jailbait to figure out beta, I managed to make one good link. I’m excited to keep working it although I may not be back for another month because of school obligations and a trip I am planning to Boston for Heart ov Zteel (more on that later). I became a little frustrated with myself this weekend because I’m intimidated by the ending and honestly I haven’t got my “lead head” back yet due to the fact that I haven’t climbed sport routes since last season. Hopefully climbing at Jailhouse more later this season will cure that and I’ll get back up to last season’s fitness level and send!
I have to say that I am continually impressed and inspired by the people who climb at Jailhouse. Most of them are hard working 9-5ers that trek out during the weekend and send 5.13 and 5.14 on a regular basis. These are people who buy their own shoes and ropes, people who don’t train 6 days a week on plastic and don’t have blogs or sponsors sending them on climbing trips. Just regular people who are psyched on rock climbing and like to keep it real. I have a deep respect for people who are passionate about what they do and these people are passionate. They are out there rain or shine, hot or cold. No excuses. It’s amazing how many people at Jailhouse are under the radar 5.14 climbers, girls included. It’s inspiring to be around so many talented and enthusiastic climbers. Not mention everyone is so friendly.
This weekend was in the low 60’s and when the crag got in the sun it was pretty warm and difficult to climb. Vian and I went swimming in the reservoir which was FREEZING. It felt good though like icing your whole body and afterward we both felt like our pump was gone and that we could climb again. The next day the clouds came and the crag stayed cool making for a long day of climbing. We were exhausted at the end of the day. It was a good weekend and I’m looking forward to returning and hope the weather will stay cool for a bit longer.
*UPDATE- Congrats to Walker Emerson who sent Jailbait today. WOOOOO!!!