This weekend I went out to Tahoe with my friends Anthony Lapomardo and Ben Polanco to try The Rapture again and shoot some video and photos. We met up with our other friends Vitaly Volberg and Brad Perry who were rad enough to show us some new boulders they had found and cleaned. I didn’t take many photos this time since we had a photog with us (Anthony) but I did get a few shots with my iPhone.
It was a lot warmer this weekend than the last time I was out there, in the high 70’s. Luckily when we arrived The Rapture was still in the shade. I came agonizingly close to sticking the crux hold and felt a lot stronger on the move than before. I was almost able to static the crux which is sort of a fly-by move to a side-pull at the lip. As soon as I started warming up to the move my tips began to bleed and the climb went into the sun. I guess I will have to wait for Fall to send.
After warming up on the bottom section for a few goes Ben was able to snag the crux hold but fell a couple more times on the top trying Vitaly’s beta. I told him to try the beta that I was planning to use if I stuck the crux move and he sent it next go using this beta.
There is a crack that runs up the face and onto the slab section where is becomes very positive. Vitaly chose to to side-pull the crack and throw out to the left arete at the top to climb up which seemed very difficult, reachy and perhaps scary. Since Ben is only a few inches taller that I am (he’s 5’5″ and I am 5’2″) my beta seemed to work better for him. The beta that I sussed out while rapping down is to stay in the crack until both feet are established on the lip which requires a highstep onto a crystal on the lip to pull over onto the slab.
Something worth mentioning is that with the new beta Ben suggested that it is possible the climb is maybe only V10. The old beta adds two more hard moves and it is probably V11 this way. Only time will tell, the line has only seen two ascents so far.
Later on in the day Vitaly and Brad took us to try some new lines they had cleaned up the day before. Vitaly had been texting me photos of one line in particular that looked amazing but it was 45 mins away from where we were so we decided to stay near Pie Shop area to try some other ones.
Nobody managed to send the line or even stick the second to last move. The line will probably have to wait until Fall when good temps will help.
I have to say, big ups to Vitaly and Brad and everyone else out there looking for boulders. I have definitely noticed a lack of motivation in most climbers here in California to get out there and search for new boulders, clean them and climb them. There is so much rock out here and so much potential and I am getting very psyched to take part in the development of South Lake Tahoe and Yosemite later this year. Even though I wasn’t actually there to help scrub the boulders this time, it’s fun to be a part of the process and climb on the new lines.
More to come…