Yosemite Fall 2011

Max Zolotukhin and I went out to the Valley this weekend for some bouldering and to scope projects for later this Fall. The conditions were still a little warm but way better than the last time we were there in August. The holds were noticeably drier and stickier. Fall is arriving in Yosemite and I couldn’t be more excited!

The best part about this Fall is that I have my favorite and most psyched partner to climb with, Max! He has been crushing climbs in Yosemite and other California areas every weekend since he arrived in California. I can’t wait to see what he accomplishes this Fall in Yosemite and Bishop. After this weekend driving around the Valley and scoping different projects it looks like we both have a lot to climb. This weekend Max sent Wall to Wall Carpet sit (V12), which he rated V11 after finding better beta at the top, and Across the Tracks (V10).

This will be my fifth year climbing in Yosemite and Max’s first. I have sent almost every climb I’ve had my eye on and now all that’s left are climbs that I’ve been avoiding because they aren’t my style or super hard climbs that will be projects for the entire season at least.

Here are some of the climbs I’ve got my eye on for Fall/Winter:

-Yabo Face (V11) reachy

-Leroy (V10) technical and highball! 

-Thong Cave (V10) my style on slightly overhung crimps

-Across the Tracks (V10) very powerful, steep climbing with a hard sloper move

-Shaddow Warrior (V12) slightly reachy, steep compression, the opposite of my style but psyched!

-Moffat start to Midnight Lightning (V10) big moves on small crimps but I know the ending

-Honor Among Thieves (V9) Arete slopers, seemingly always in the sun but a nice line

-Pine Box (V11) compression on good slopers, very reachy, probably V12 if you are short, psyched!

-The Diamond (V8) reachy but last season I stuck the “reachy” move, psyched to go back for it!

-Black Widow (V9) I’ve only seen video but it looks rad! Walker, take me here!!!

-Cindy (V9)  also never seen this one but I’ve heard it’s good, tall and possibly reachy, bring it!

-Narcissus (V11) powerful roof moves that finishes on one of my favorite climbs at Le Conte.  


Gahhhhh!!! Everything on my list is hard and I don’t know if I’ll get to everything this season but I am going to try. I’ve already worked out beta for some of these climbs and I’m just waiting for the cold temps now. I’m hoping by writing down my list it will make me even more determined. I’m feeling more psyched than ever!  Whatever happens, send or no send,  it’s shaping up to be a good Fall/Winter season.

V E R Y  E X C I T E D ! ! !

There were a lot of lights up on El Cap this weekend. Perfect weekend for trad. Couldn't help but get a little jealous of all the climbers up there. SOMEBODY TAKE ME TRAD CLIMBING.

Can't wait for beer drinking around the fire!

Max warming up at Bridalveil. Why can't I remember the name of this climb? Anyone?

Toll plaza on the Bay Bridge on the way home.

Bay Bridge.


6 responses to “Yosemite Fall 2011

  1. If you try Thong Cave make sure you start sitting with the undercling as your start hold. A great list, good luck!

    • I have been starting there. I almost sent it the other day but it was hot and I fell getting into Silent Spotter and got a huge flapper on my index finger! I am going to need your “short” beta for some of these climbs 🙂

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