Dark Horse 2011

Last weekend I flew out to Boston to compete in the third annual Dark Horse Climbing Series at Metro Rock in Everett, MA. It is my second year doing the series. The competition was run a little differently and in my opinion, a lot better this year. Competitors competed in two waves which made the redpoint round a lot less crowded than it would have been. Thanks to Dave Wetmore et al, the problems were also very good. It seems like at each competition the setting gets better.

The most exciting part about the competition was that finals were to be held in the newly built addition to the gym. I hadn’t even seen the walls so I had no idea what to expect. Even though I’ve been climbing well outside, I haven’t been climbing as much I would like in the gym these days so I didn’t know how I would do in the competition. After climbing well and not getting too pumped in qualifiers I went into finals in first place. I have to say, I was pretty impressed with the youth climbers in this comp. So many of them are climbing really hard and I felt like I lucked out to have done so well in qualifiers (I was ten years older than the oldest female competitor in finals!). I also felt excited like I could win the competition this time.

Women's #2 stumped me and I fell over and over and over again on a reachy jump around a bulge wondering if iI was missing some beta. I wasn't, at 5'2" I just can't dunk. photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

Problem #3. photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

Problem #3. photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

Problem #4. I was the only climber to figure out the right beta. The BAT HANG! photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

The crowd went wild. It was super motivating but I was so pumped and fell at the end 😦 photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

The competition wall. photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

The crowd. photo Pat Bagley http://bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/

I ended up in 5th place after finals. I did not perform as well as I should have and felt a little disappointed since I was flown all the way out there from San Francisco to compete. My mentality in finals was too relaxed. I needed to “want it” a little bit more. I won’t make excuses though. I had a lot of fun and I am excited to return with Max for the Finale in February.

CONGRATS to Andy and Katie Lamb for winning the competition!

Click HERE to see more photos from Pat Bagley .

 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s