Mt. Tam Bouldering

Sorry for not updating for a while. This Summer has been busy and all about work and gym climbing.

For those you who don’t know, I started working full-time as a chiropractor at a clinic called Chiro-Medical Group in downtown San Francisco. It’s an integrated clinic with a sports medicine focus. I work with other chiropractors, medical doctors, a nurse practitioner, physical therapists, rehab specialists, athletic trainers and a massage therapist. I’ve gotten to work on a variety of people ranging from Olympic athletes, Iron Man athletes, triathletes, Cross Fit junkies to everyday desk jockeys, pregnant mommies-to-be, and elderly folks and help them feel better, work better and play better. Even though I am not in school anymore I am still learning a lot everyday from my more experienced colleagues. It’s a world class clinic and I am excited to be part of it!

I’ve also been climbing a lot in the gym recently in preparation for two big competitions that are coming up, the Aesthetic Invitational and the UBC Pro Tour stop in Seattle. I started following a training program the Kris Peters put together for me a couple months ago. The amount of time I was spending at work and at the gym away from the people/animals and everything else I love was beginning to become soul sucking. I was only at home to sleep anymore. I would go to work at 7:30am and get home at 10 or 11pm everyday. I had to modify how much I was training (since I can’t change how much I am at work). Kris had come up with a great program but I am also not 19 anymore and with all the training, a full-time job and not enough sleep I constantly felt on the verge of  injury. Training has still been great though! After Costa Rica and two weeks off from climbing I felt weak. Now I feel as strong as ever.

Anyway, the main point of this post was to update you all on the Mt. Tam boulders we went to last weekend. I haven’t gotten outside a lot this Summer but when I have the theme has been to visit new local areas or boulders that I haven’t been to before. We’ve made it out to Stinson Beach and I sent Little Wing, V9 FFA, we went to Tahoe a couple times and I sent Fresh Tips, V9 FFA. Last weekend we finally made the 45 min drive up to Mt. Tamalpais to check out the Ravine boulder that our friend Reid Augustino had told us about two months previous.

The first view of the Ravine boulder from the roadside.

The Ravine boulder.

There are basically three established climbs on this boulder. Here is the description from Chris Summit’s blog:

The Ravine Boulder (left to right)
{1-5 *star quality ratings}

“Crumble Mumble” V4/5?* sit start – or low sit at base of rail V!?
FA = Chris Summit 2008

2 center face V!? sit start #4 then follow diagonal rail on #3 and #4 up right before punching it through steep face up into top of #1 (or top of #3 or somewhere in between the two?).

“Wicked” V9/10?*** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then do #4 up right before turning left at the stand start and passing a w-shaped Vulcan hold up left to top – stand start V4/5?**
FA = Brett Shingu 2012

4 “Bonum Vitae” V7/8?**** sit start at base of diagonal rail (low and left side) then crank past sloper rail moves angling up right into stand start crack top out – stand start V0/1?**
FA = Reed Augustino 2012

Max topping out on Crumble Mumble.

Buddy Marshburn getting ready to try Bonum Vitae.

Buddy on Bonum Vitae.

Buddy on Bonum Vitae.

The namesake “W” hold on Wicked.

Me trying Wicked.

Both Wicked and Bonum Vitae were originally rated V10 but we came up with some alternate beta that made them feel like V9 and V7/8 respectively. Brett Shingu happened to be driving by and stopped to talk to us about the climbs. He showed us their beta for both of the climbs and it definitely seemed like they were trying a much harder way. Either way the two climbs are great additions to the Bay Area climbing scene and I would recommend checking them out if you are in the area. Brett and Reid did a great job cleaning these up and climbing them. The climbs seem like basalt to me but I’m not sure as some of it seem like sandstone as well. Read more about the area in Chris Summit’s blog HERE.

Max also did the First Ascent of the sit start to Crumble Mumble which he called Mt. Tamil Tiger Turd and rated v8.

We also heard about a hard project up the road so we went to check that out. It’s a vertical face with flat edges that is harder than it looks. It’s also always in the sun so the friction on the small edges lacking. The boulder was radiating heat when we arrived late in the day. Max estimates the boulder to be in the V12/13 range. Here are some photos of the climb.

Buddy on the proj.

Crimp pr0n…mega close up of one of the edges on the proj.

Thumbs up for bouldering!

The view from the project top out.

Twilight in San Francisco with the Golden Gate bridge.

I have been climbing so much in the gym that climbing outside last weekend felt like A LOT of fun! I got psyched for the coming Fall season and re-psyched on training.  I can’t wait for Jailhouse and Yosemite!!!

Next weekend is the Aesthetic Invitational so stay tuned for updates and photos from the comp!

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